“3,5 out of 4”: Dutch Telegraaf newspaper reviews Restaurant Benz at Kazerne

With a score of 3.5 on a scale of 4, culinary reviewer Pieter Nijdam assesses his experience at Benz at Kazerne as very good to exceptional: “Olander (24) strives for perfection. This was already his motto at Geranium, where he learned the trade from patron-cuisinier Rasmus Kofoed. When we get our first amuses, we immediately know what he means by that. Crispy pork skin with soya on which edible flowers have been glued to be eaten as finger food. Raw razor with pickled rhubarb and ‘beach herbs’ makes my table companion shed a tear.” Nijdam’s critical appraisal was published in the Vrij appendix of Dutch newspaper De Telegraaf during the first weekend of May. 

The review continues: “So beautiful, so subtle, everything is just right.” “What this Swede does with our asparagus is breathtaking. The still crunchy white stems in foamy butter sauce (ed.: cheese sauce) with lemon thyme is the most delicious preparation we have ever had.” “Cooking at such a high level so soon after opening is an achievement. With the arrival of Olander, Eindhoven has already won one champion.” 


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